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Whenever compiling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might expect renowned award-winning establishments. However, tucked near the top among these food giants is a modest salonu located in a distant area of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

The little Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the owners totally astonished.

“I’m completely shocked,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their modest place securing such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent quality.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in less syrup than usual, giving it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this culinary achievement.